This winter, I got to experience some outer reefs on a ery good day, the day I enjoyed was the day the spots weren't fully on fire. when it braks full potential ( like these photos ) it is too big for me, I would be way in the channel looking at the big boys ripping way deep and far back , dropping in on some huge bombers.
There are many days that I didn't go out because I knew I didn't belong there and even though I would have enjoyed watching from the channel, I know they enjoyed having that spot with only the people who deserve to be there and no kooks getting in their way.
As much as I was frustrated with my lack f skills and being chicken, I was so stiked to see the boys charging and thier eyes get totally lit up with adrenalin and highest level of high. it was so inspiring!
I think Now I know how big I can handle when I have sup board that drags me in the watr for ever( not big) . it is sad but true, and I sure hope maybe next year I can handle just a little bit bigger and powerful waves , but not this year.
But how lucky I am to have all these guys who charges right in front of you and make it look so good and make you want to feel what they feel soooo bad! They are my huge inspirations.when it gets big like that , line up has no arguments, no sup, surf,kite windsurf classes, it is all love and happiness and everyone respect each other and take turns ( becaue there are plenty of waves and a lot fewer people than usual)
Just for that reason, I would love to get better and feel comfortable being out there so no one is going to give me stink eyes or see people yelling at each other.
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