Talia Gangini

We got to shoot this new beautiful local talent , Talia.
She is a very accomplished paddler ( regular lay down and stand up) surfing since she can remember, very comfortable in the ocean all around. Also she has a jewelry company and swimsuit brand. her necklace enbrace the cover of Swimsuit Issue of Sports Illustrated this year. this magazine is considered to be the indication of what fashion and models will be in and popular this season. and her necklace was on the COVER! that is big.

And guess what? she is only 16 years old yet.
Tracy ( the photographer ) and I had so much fun getting to know her and her sister (they are making the suimsuits together) and shooting.

Talia has very relaxed atrtitude with good intention and I am sure that she is going to be big name in the very near future.
She is doing theinfamous Molokai crossing race this weekend ( which is a big accomplishment just to do it, many big men gets nervous thinking about doing that rough water long distance paddle) and he has already done it several times ( the first time was when she was 14!)

We are planning to shoot with Talia and her sister with more ideas and fun stuff when they get back and that is going to be fun!

Work work work!

I have been hanging out with couple guys to do some assignment for a Japanese mens fashion magazine, it's a bit diffucult for me because it is not as efficient as the way we always work. we have to be on stand by all day long and hang out. Usually with Tracy or Darrell who I work with the most, we just wait for the good condition and shoot for couple hours and then done till whenever the next condition comes.

it has been a good learning experience for sure and made me realized that I am so blessed with being based here and surrounded by great photographers handy to work with whenever the occation pops out.

I got to go in the water a little while they were shooting sunset shots in Kihei, it was beautiful light and so peaceful, people were out with kayaks, outrigger canoes, long boards , tandem.
And everyone was smiling.
Got some shots of my girlfriend Kana, I think I had more fun shooting than actual surfing part. it was that beautiful.

SUP on both sides of the island

Downwinder with girls!

I think the race inspired many people on Maui, lately many of the girls are interested in doing it.
Today we had 2 first timers Mari and Tomoko , both real good surfers.

Since wind wasn't so strong , we started from Tavares , they did real good and we had a great time. We don't really get to hang out too much but I think they enjoyed getting away from the kids for a bit and had great fun excercise with girlsfriends.The funny thing was when we were done, I went up to their car, they were already pulling up the tab of Coors light and eating crispy cream donuts (kana brought dozen of them!)
Very well prepared , girls!

The funnest paddle race in the world!

Race was on today, so many people were driving around with long race board this morning.
Even though I didn't participate in the race , I went to watch the start of the race. pretty amazing view to see 200 people racing down the big blue water.

There are many of world class top racers like Kalama, Jamie Mitchell, Scott Trudon, Aaron Napoleon, Thibert Lucciaa, Kiva Rivers and so on.
There are also many beginner local riders or doing it stricktly for the fun of it.
It is known as the funnest race ever because if the strong tradewind pushing from behind the whole course so 9 plus miles long doesn't seem too long and you can enjoy catching the wind swell the whole way.

I am not sure what exactly happened but Dave ( Kalama ), the one to beat wasn't on the list for results, I just heard he was leading almost till the end and Scott passed him, he just didn't finish . doesn't sound like what he would do , though.
I would love to see events like this happening more often, friendly , not too serious so that beginners wouldn't be intimidated and still races with top racers so we can get inspired. Maui has so many talents in so many sports and it would be great to see those top performance more often.

our Japanese crew Yoshi Nagamatsu and Tomo Murabayashi did well, too. when they first arrived they were shocked how all the locals were so tuned in with the downwind and they couldn't keep up. but they must learned a lot in the last couple days of last minute practicing. They both got within top 3 in their own divisions! way to go, guys!

My paddle mentor Devin kicked ass, too. I had told Tomo to watch out for her because she is fast, and he told me she was ahead of him all the way till the end and finally he muscled his way paddling and passed her but it was only 15 second away. Devin is very small and not muscular but she is super good at utilizing the swell and she was way ahead of many of the unlimited class guys even. I am fortunate to have her as paddling buddy and someone to follow all the time. She will be doing the molokai crossing in couple weeks which is the real big boy race. I hope she kicks ass in that event as well.

I love contest and racing , noy because of the feeling of winning but the great focus everyone has to push his limit and meeting new people who shares the same passion.
This race has both great top performances and the very ｆriendly smiles everywhere. Well done everyone!

Downwind Paddle again!

Tomorrow is the big padle race, this one is known for the funnest race in the world as far as paddle race goes. with Maui's strong tradewind pushing from behind, you get glides that you wouldn't experience anywhere else. it is like riding small waves on stop! and the guys on Maui are soo fast!

Anyways, I bumped into Michi on the water and he said there are already more signups than last year and usually people don't sign up till the day before so it will be a big race tomorrow and the wind is supposed to be as strong as today.My body is a little sore from yesterday. the very subtle excercise the trainer showed me yesterday at the gym ( I thought it was like grannie's excercise and couldn't see how that could help me build anything) is working, pretty cool.
So I went to the gym for a little bit to work on the same boring excercise before I went paddling.

Southside is completely flat so Kana called for downwinder. Tomo, Kana and I went out from Maliko and as we were paddling down motoko and Hide saw us and sailed close to us at Hookipa. palyed around like dolphins would do to boats. pretty cool.

It was good sideshore and strong wind and I am starting to feel stronger again. what a fun way to get excercise! I cannot imagine how I was dealing the flat summer without downwinder in the past.

The true meaning of Health

I had a fortunate opportunity to interview Dr. Poskowitz last Jan, it was one of the very inspiring interviews I've done. In his book "Surfing and Helth" he explains the true health. It is more than the mere absense of disease, it is sperior state of being, living vigor life with strong body and mind. He listed 5 things in order to pursuit the true health.

1 correct diet
2 sufficient excercise
3 proper rest
4 recreation
5 good attitude of mind

1 and 2 are easy to understand , 3 as well, but for me, I tend to ignore that and end up getting too tired and get hurt( in fact most of my sickness and injury came from not having proper rest )
4 is pretty interesting. Doc even explained that the word RECRETION means Re- Create so we have to have receation to refresh ourselves and become brand new again so we won't get worn out . I got it! That is why we feel so good after doing things we love . I have plenty of #4 in my life to be healthy.
5 is very important. many physical illness comes from mental problems , we all know that. But it is hard to have a right attitue 247. But I guess if you have good diet, some excercise and rest and do things you love, that will keep you happy and content that your attitude of mind will be positive. and boy I know how well connnected the mind and body is , that is for sure. I was dealing with that all last 4 weeks!

when I think of these list and then look at Sumomo ( my best friend's 3 year old daughter ) she is a perfect example of true health. She is 1 eating well, 2 always moving , 3 take a good nap and good night sleep, then 4 do all kinds of fun stuff and 5 always happy and interested in everything and live in a moment 100% with no judgement, no hangups. That is why she is so beautiful and adorable! Having her aroound is a constant learning experience in a great fun way.

Maliko Bay to Kahukui Harbor

My back is getting better and my stoke gets higher every day!
Even though I am ot doing the paddle race this year, I went out with Tomo to check out the course today, it is about 10 Miles ) I think from the start to finish, but as long as it has trade wind push, it doesn't feel too long and the glide is super fun.

I had only done the whole leg once before long time ago when I could hardly paddle but I realized that it is good to do often because it helps to know which line to take . everyday the wind direction is a bit different, yesterday was offshore and hard to paddle in so we end up paddling a lot on right side, Today I took middle course and still wasn't outside enough so I ended up paddling left side the whole time towards the end, hugging the jetty just to clear it to get to the end. and then the past part , you have to paddle almost against the wnd and that is tough.

Tomo seemed pretty happy with how he did ( he said it took him an hour and 34 minutes , I guess it took meabout an hour and 40 something minutes)
I am just happy I made it without hurting any part of my body.

Tomo and Nagamatsu-kun( another pro windsurfer/paddler guy from Japan) went out one more time for short run in the rain.
They are shocked how high the levels are here but excited to learn s lot from it.

We had pot luck dinner at John and chihagi's . I have a hermit life when I am on Maui and never go out but it was great to see many friends and had great tasting dishes. John and chigahi both used to work at surfshops ( john still does at Hi-Tech) and always helping Japanese visitors Their Open-arms-hospitality is wonderful!

Tomo Murabayashi on Maui

After paddling yesterday, my back was not too sore and I felt like I can keep going.
I have been feeling weak and unhealthy for so long , it is such a great feeling to be Ok to play in the water again.

My friend Tomo Murabayashi( kiter/ standup paddler) from Japan arrived yesterday to participate in the paddle race which will　be held this coming weekend. So we went out paddling together　and had bast, he doesn't have a top of a line race board but he has been training hard and just won Japanese big standup event ( all 3 disciplines)
He was pretty fast ( way faster than me to say the least ) but we saw Dave Kalama and his friends going out from Maliko at the same time so I told him to watch Dave so he can learn some tips. But even though he started a lot later than us, before we even got to Hookipa , Dave passes us in a flash and we didn't even get to have time to watch him. Sooo fast! pretty amazing to watch ( for maybe 2 second and he became a tiny dot)

Anyways, Tomo will be in 12ft board division so I think he has more chance ( all the good serious racer guys are in unlimited or over 14 ft class) I hope he does well.
For me, I'd better not think about racing now and focus on healing. there is always another event. I am just happy to be able to paddle and get wet. That is more than enough.

Road to recovery

After trying out to go stand up paddling on the south side, I had heavy headache. I didn't know what it was from but that kept me from going out and do stuff, I was sooo sick of being weak and unhealthy but there was nothing I could do.

Keiko told me she has exactly the same headache on full moon . I do get affected by full moon a lot , not being able to sleep but I never thought that I would get headache . Strange enough the head ache is pretty much gone today. And I went out for downwinder paddle with Motoko.
I was a bit nervous because unlike standup paddling in the small surf on the southside, you are constantly paddling and it is a bit long , I wasn't sure if my back can handle it. Overall I had a great time just being out there with my best friend and I did figure out I can paddle if I don't paddle hard trying to catch the swell, when I try to paddle hard, than my back can feel it .
I wanted to do the race on 12th and was determined to train after Baja ( which was may so I was supposed to have whole month of June to train ) but I decided not to, if I go in the race, no matter what I would try to paddle hard and right now my body is not capable and my main focus should be healing and getting stronger so ... maybe next year.
At least I am out in the water a little bit. I am happy about that.

Ahi Dinner with Keiko and Skip

Now that my back is finally getting better, surf is going down . Typical, but it's Ok, if the surf is going off, I probably get too excited and go a lot more than I should. I should take it slow since after 4 weeks or laying in bed, I lost all my strength and muscles.

I invited Keiko and Skip for dinner , they were so wonderful while I was down , they fully took care of me, coming and bringing food, ice, whatever they can think of, every day, couple times a day! it was a lot and I really appreciate that and hope I can be that way when any of my friend gets hurt or need any kind of help.

Anyway, I had some fresh ahi that Jamie caught and cut it out for me, so I made seared ahi and Tahitian ceviche( my favorite dish) we also had salad and Annin dohu for desert, in additin to that Keiko brought us icecream with yummy chocolate powder so we had a feast. it was a very relaxed peaceful fun dinner.

Keiko said that she has exact headache that I have and it happens on full moon night so my headach may be caused by the same reason.
hmmm interesting. if that is the case my headache should be gone tomorrow so that is a good news.

I really want to get back in shape and go full force in the water but at the same time I am abit scared that I may aggrevate my injury so I have been very careful and hesitant.
Hopefully I can talk to some trainer or physical theapist and find out what to do and what not to do very soon.

Water Therapy!

After 4 weeks of recovering , I finally decided to try to go in the water .
the surf has been pretty good on the southside the whole time I was down.
I got to Thousand peaks, and it was not that big but fun size for me to go after 4 weeks of no exercise.
my old windsurfing friend and living Aloha , Joni Demello was there so we went out together to this one little peak where no one was out and had a mellow cruising session. the waves weren't that great but it didn't matter , I was just happy to be back in the water, I could feel that every time I fall in the water, all my stress and worries and depression was literally being washed away and I came out cleaner, more refreshed.
This is the best therapy I can ever get, as long as I don't push it to aggravate my injury.
I have to keep remind myself not to go off too fast and go slow.
I rbought my waterproof camera out so I would shift my energy off from catching waves to takling photos of my pictures, that worked well!

What a difference!

I started walking outside a little bit yesterday because one of Motoko's friend who happened to be a doctor told me I should be moving as much as I can, and even though I was trying to take as little drugs as possible, he told me to go for it and make the pain go away so I could move.
After reaggrevated my injury, I was so scared todo anything because I didn't want to keep reaggrevated again and couldn't stand taking so long to heal.

It still doesn't feel strong or well but I started moving and popping the drugs as the doctor told me.
one thing I notoiced is how I feel. I may feel a bit soreness on my back or some heaviness but so far it hasn't gave me any sharp pain or disk slipping feeling. and juts being outside and wallking a bit made me feel like I am worth something.
I must admit I don't take very well not being active or being injured, it makes me feel like such a loser. Laying in bed for 4 weeks was not good for my selfesteem.

Yesterday I tried to wear shoes and realized that I am not used to it and ended up getting blisters after just 10-20 minutes of walking. how could I get blisters from comfy soft sneakers, that's pretty bad but I have done it and I don't remember when is the last time I had anything on that had heals covered. ( I usually wear slippers or clogs) So much for trying to look official.

So today I wore Tevas and that seems to be Ok, but still I got a little more blisters. I have to admit that I never really walk much and maybe I should stat now to get my legs in shape to support my back.

Anyway, walking through the forest was great, it felt like my life is meaningful again.
And now I am motivated to explore other trails. There gotta be many great falls that I haven't seen .

Root of the Japanese watermen

Last weekend, the 10th annual Sabani crossing Race was held in Okinawa, Japan.
I was fortunate to join that race couple years ago, it was full of big adrenalin rush, bonding with friends, humbling and learning experience in the open ocean. I was blown away how ancient Japanese fishermen used to handle those boats to go everywhere alone to travel and fish. It was very hard to control and required a lot of skill and knowledge of the ocean, it sure made me want to be better at at, too.

I didn't get to join the race this year but I was following how my friends were doing in the race.
The captain oftThe team I was in couple years ago, is a professional windsurfer named Naoto and he is born and raised Okinawan. He is a typical islander and his passion for Sabani seems to grow every year, he ended up buiding his own Sabani this year. And that's a pretty big deal.
The skill to build Sabani boat is considered almost extinct, there are only handful of boat builders left and they are all getting really old. So I thought it was a wonderful awakening of younger generation , trying to figure out to build a good Sabani boat.
Even though the boat turned out to be heavy and not go fast for the race, I think Naoto shook many people's motivation to learn more about Sabani and even to build one.
Yvon once said Sometimes it is the process that matters more than the results. I think the fact that he wanted to learn how his ancester used to build and handle those boats is such a wonderful thing that it doesn't matter the boat wasn't fast enough to win the race. Seems like not doing well in the race only put gas into his inner fire for Sabani anyways.

Talking about process. another friend of mine, who I really respect is Nakata, he is a fisherman in Ishigaki where I visit almost every time I go back to Japan. It is far down south of Japan and almost tropical. the water is so clear and beautiful, full of bright corals. He is also a long time windsurfer/ kitesurfer and standup paddler.
He has been leading a team for Sabani race for 4 years now but this year, they decided to go traditinal way.
It means they won't attach outrigger( without it, it is extremely hard to balance the boat) and they will only use the traditinal paddle for stiring( manual stiiring with that skinny paddle called EIKU is mind-wearing and physically demanding)
He said it was as hard as they were afraid of but they managed to finish the race and got 5th in the traditional sabani division.
I am sure it gave them a whole another respect for their own cultture and ancesters who used to travel across with the boat that way.

I always think going back to simple way can be good sometims, it requires more of your own judgement, your own body strength and skills and knowledge.
Just think about crossing island to island, for instance. We depend on GPS, engines to go fast, and maps and phones to travel safe, which keep us from learning about current , weather patterns, all the signs that ocean gives us and also not gaing all the physical strength and mental toughness that come with it.

Sabani Race raise the awareness and the pride for the Japanese traditional skills and knowledge of the ocean. and people in the race all have mutural passion and connection among them, it's a great feeling.
I sure hope I can make it back to be part of it next summer!

photo is Team Unajura with traditonal Sabani.

Good Quote

As All I can do is laying down most of the day still, I have been reading quite a bit. I picked up new SURFER magazine which was special issue of "50 greatest surfers of all time "
I thought it was a very stupid theme , why do people have to label and rank everything especially Surfing, which is all about personal preference , it is such a broad subject and how could someone can put Kelly, Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Curren together and put ranking as 1,2,3? how can you say " Oh Gerry you are #4, you are not as great as Tom Curren or Kelly"
Wow.
Of course I have my own personal list of greatest surfers of all time according to MY OWN standard and quality I look up to, but that is personal.There is no way I can rank them as 1st and second, they all have different qualities that teach you something real special.
You just cannot rank all the surfers of different era, that is for sure, maybe it is something to do with contest oriented scene and it is always easy to categorize and put numbers.

Anyways, contrary to the stupid concept, there were some good readings in it.
magazine editors found right person to write something interesting about each of the greatest surfers.
My favorite was Rob Machado on Gerry Lopez, ( he told me the exact stor almost exact words when I interviewed him in Jan for japanese magazine and I was very moved by his story) , Jeannie Chesser on Rell Sunn, Rory Russel on Jock Sutherland( and a bit about Gerry ).
in their word, their own personality comes up vivid ly as well as their love and respect for the person, it makes you feel warm inside and feel shared the aloha they have.
I do have so many mentors in and out of water and this inspired me to put those respect and feeling into words before it gets too old.

Rob said something interesting that I couldn't put it into right words about Gerry,
"He( Gerry) is inspirational, not just in the way he makes difficult situation look easy, but in his whole act from head to toe, from sunrise to sunset. There is a realtionship he has with riding waves and with being in the ocean, there is that synergy between the two, and you can just see it."

Amen!

My favorite books

I think My mind gets ill before my body heals if I had to stay in bed any longer. But one good news today was when I went to the chiropractic doctor, she said it is not as bad as it has been and she only had to adjust a little and didn't make future appointment .
The bad news was she said " if you rest the same way for one more week and then start feeling the water, you should be able to slowly get back on the track"
Wow, one more week would make this healing process a WHOLE month!
Well I guess I have to realize that it could be worse and there are a lot of people who is dealing with worse situation.

I am sooooo commited to get my health back and build my strength as soon as I get string enough to train. but the hardest thing is to hold back so I won't hurt it again, it is very scary to think that there is a possibility of doing that, that scares me more than 8ft closeout sets. well close outs are pretty scary to me, too, though.

Anyways, I was given plenty of time to read all sorts of books, first I was reading easy casual stuff since it was hard to focus with the pain.
It is such a great feeling when you find a good book you love. it is like meeting a lifelong friend.

Here are some of my lifelong friends in square shapes. I am listing here only the English ones ( or the one that is available in English)They have given me limitless imaginations. dreams and passions. Real truth ( I hope) of life and people. and taste of experience without actually doing it. I've got so many words of wisdom that lead me when I was lost or delirious.
I must say my favorite is always real adventure and touch of anthropology flavor . I love good biography and history books as well.

1 Endurance
my old time favorite, Shakleton has all the quality I adore in men, adventurous, passionate and driven, tough to the bone and always have sense of humor especially when the situation gets hairy, and this whole experience they go through, I cannot imagine anything harder and tougher than that and somehow he kept spirits high amoung his men and even made acroos to the island to get help with little boat and walk across the impossible. ( the route he managed to go across wasn't accom0lished by anyone till very recent even with GPS and all the high tech gear and knowledge)

2 Surf is where you find it by Gerry Lopez
I cannot help the favortism but hey it is a great read.

3 Ordinary Wolves by Seth kantner
one of the few books that I read in English . If you love Alaska and long to be in the wilderness this is the book to read. Seth was raised in the wilderness , living in a sod igloo, and live a sustainable life ( back in 60-80's when 90 % of people didn't know what that means)
This is a fiction but painfully reveals his life and feelings with lots of sarcastic darkness with unique sense of humor. The way he describe things are so beautil and poetic and original, it takes you to the wide open tundra , or to the below 50 ice storm or in the middle of herding caribus.
not very well known book but won couple awards , much better than some of the books on Alaska.

4 Fatu Hiva by Thor Heieldar
I read this one very recently, Thor Heieldar is one of my heros who crosse the pacific from Peru to Easter island to Tahiti to prove his theory of the root of Polinesian people. that adventure is also a book called Konyiki and it has been one of my favorite since I was a child. but I found this book that is written about his experience living in a jungle around WW2, which changed his life and lead him to do that Kontiki expedition.

I guess list will never end so I will stop now...

Team Surfing USA

I knew Laird was off the island. I knew he was in Tahiti and my little bro Ben got to shoot him at Teahupoo while ago, but I wasn't following what he was up to lately.

I just found out that he is in the major crosscountry bike race with his friends.
The race starts from the west coast and finishes somewhere on the east coast, they are aiming for breaking the record of 5 days and some hours . the team consists of Laird himself and his good friend/ super fit entrepreneur Don Wildman( he is 76 years old who trains and surf, paddle. bike. run, snowboard with Laird all the time ) Another guy is member of rockband Rage against the Machine, Tim Commerford, and last one is former football player/ironman, Jason Winn.

As if crossing the whole continent is not enough, Laird decided to add little more than 100 miles of standup paddling right before the race from Malibu to Oceanside, then will be paddling again in NY across and around the Statue of Liberty after the race.

Anyway, they are among the top 3 teams right now and they will soon finish the race.
He cannot stand dull moment and to beat the flat summer, he always managed to find some kind of challenge that gives him adrenalin rush. At the same time raising quite a bit of money for good causes.

to follow what they are doing go to
http://surfermag.com/race_across_america/index.html

watching him makes me feel like such a loser laying in bed for so many days....

Couple steps backwards

It's been more than 2 weeks since I tweaked my back and not being able to do much.
I was hoping I would be out and back in the water by now but no, I am still mostly laying around looking at ceiling.

first week was easy, even though pain was bad, I felt the progress of healing every day. now it goes back and force, one day, it is better, and some day, it's not.
This morning, I woke up to find my back with a lot more pain than last couple days.
It is so disappointing and hard to keep my spirit high.
I went to see acupuncture doctor and had cupping and needle and some incense burning. It seems that acupuncture is more popular here on Maui than Japan.
To me right now, it is like I would try anything.

I know this is some kind of lesson that I have to learn. and back of my mind, I probably know what it is, it is that I have to know my limit and gracefully accept it.
I tend to push it too hard to the point my body cannot take it any more. I need to know when to stop so I don't have to be forced to stop and start all over again after being stuck in bed for weeks, not worth it.

I pulled out the book I had translated last year [Surf Realization]
written by Gerry Lopez. Original book is published from Patagonia publishing and English Title is " Surf is where you find it"( that itself is a great teaching right there!)
I had read the book over and over when I was translating so I almost memorasing the story but still every time I opened the pages, it seems that his writing always gives me some insight, encouragement or teaching that I need at the time. it is very strange.
I know many christians say same things about bible but maybe ocean worshippers like us can use his book that way as well.

I thkink I am going to try my self healing method of Reiki this afternoon, see if that helps.

Thoughts on Fathers Day

In Japan we don't really express our feelings. In fact, the hardest thing for me when I first came to USA when I was a teenager, was to express my feelings. I had such a hard time saying No ( in Japan you just say, "maybe" with the little bit of confused look and the person will understand you are not into it), so that if someone asked to go somewhere or do something, I would just do it, instead of saying No.

I have changed quite a bit since then, but still I don't think I'd ever said "I love you" to my parents, and we barely give each other a hug, if I did, they would think something is wrong or I am freaking out.
So it is almost embarassing for me to even bring out the Fathers day and show my appreciation to my father. But I really feel that I owe to my parents, especially my father's unconditional support when I was young that let me experience so many different things and bought any books I wanted as long as it was a good one.

He gave me so much energy and time for me and my friends, taking us hiking on weekends, reading me books, taking me to museums, trips, and always good to all my friends. he was very supportive of me writing any sort of things, and I used to write stories for my little brother when I was first or second grade.
I think he wanted me to be a writer.
It is funny that I am actually making living
( well, sort of) writing, even though I don't consider myself a journalist or writer.

I am not sure if I turn out to be what he was hoping me to be, most likely not. I am still causing lots of confusions and frustration to my parents but I do know that what I am has a lot to do with what my father gave me. all the imagination, experiences and chance to give anything a try.
So I would not say this in person in Japanese but in a English diary, maybe my Americanized side, I can express a little more feeling.

Thanks dad!

This is what I missed last week!

Tracy sent this video that her fiance/ videographer/my kite mentor, Eliot Laboe shoot and edited.
Not that I can get barrels like these but this give me a biter taste of what I had missed all last week while trying to get my back healed in bed.

I am still in bed, wondering if I ever get better, but I shouldn't think that way, I gotta be positive and believe in my healing evergy.
wind is hauling and I can pictue all my friends paddling downwinders, kiting in Lanes, surfing southside.

What is it that I have to learn not to hurt myself, revend beforehand?
I am really sick of taking times off like this and start all over again every time!

watch the movie
sup dog at Maalaea