Honolua Bay

As I woke up and cheked my e-mails, I found an e- mail from my friend who is in Northshore Oahu for the whole season shootong watershots. it said that he was coming to Maui to catch some shots in Honolua with couple japanese pro surfers.
I called his number and they were already at Honolua at 7 am. They decided to come last night and rallied around 2 am to get to airport and then took first flight and got rental car. and here they are dawn patroling Honolua! That is pretty good!It was too onshore to kite on the northside so I was thinking about going to west side in the first place, I drove all the way to Honolua to see them.They were already in the water. waves were going off. I watched them for hours . I know when it is good here, it is hard to catch good set waves because all the locals will catch it and there are not much left . and by the time next sets come, those locals who cought the last one will be back in a lineup.
But they managed to snagg some good ones .There were also other really good surfers and bodyboarders, later on I found out they were Jamie O'brien and Liam Mcmanara, some local ripper I cannot remember the name , and world body board champ Jeff HUbbard etc.(this is Jamie after hours of surfing , locals didn't show too much welcome, he was getting dropped in on left and right, poor thing, that wasn't cool but he was ripping)

Surf art legend John Severson once told me
# Honolua is like Yankee stadium of surfing. any kid can play baseball at yankee stadium technichally but they don't and they shouldn't. Honolua should be that way , too"
I kinda got what he meant. I understand you earn your way up by dealing with junk waves or wait in line for the long time but if you do that and put effort long enough , you will be the one who gets the waves you want. it is total pecking order but I think it is Ok.

Anyways, what a great waves and it wasn't even that windy, everywhere else on the island was gale force! Special place indeed!

Sunset Standup paddle big wave contest

this newest board sport call Standup paddle is growing so fast! now they have a world tour and ran the first event in Sunset.
They had the real Sunset condition and they fully charged the waves.
most of them are already great big wave surfers who can handle this or pipe or Waimea or outer reefs but man! with standup board attchd to your leg, I don't think you want to get worked or dragged in this kind of wave.
I was so excited to see how the guys do and tried to follow the results etc, and came up with this shot of Kala Alexander on the internet.
whew, pretty intense. when you think you are getting better. evryone else is getting better 5 times faster than you. well more like 10 times fastr than me!

Just wonder how far it is going to go, I already see many maui guys riding way more aggressive than last year. I guess it is nice to have guys who can make the trail for you so you have a long long trail to follow . The fun ever ends that way.

Outer reefs, big boys' playground

This winter, I got to experience some outer reefs on a ery good day, the day I enjoyed was the day the spots weren't fully on fire. when it braks full potential ( like these photos ) it is too big for me, I would be way in the channel looking at the big boys ripping way deep and far back , dropping in on some huge bombers.
There are many days that I didn't go out because I knew I didn't belong there and even though I would have enjoyed watching from the channel, I know they enjoyed having that spot with only the people who deserve to be there and no kooks getting in their way.
As much as I was frustrated with my lack f skills and being chicken, I was so stiked to see the boys charging and thier eyes get totally lit up with adrenalin and highest level of high. it was so inspiring!

I think Now I know how big I can handle when I have sup board that drags me in the watr for ever( not big) . it is sad but true, and I sure hope maybe next year I can handle just a little bit bigger and powerful waves , but not this year.
But how lucky I am to have all these guys who charges right in front of you and make it look so good and make you want to feel what they feel soooo bad! They are my huge inspirations.
when it gets big like that , line up has no arguments, no sup, surf,kite windsurf classes, it is all love and happiness and everyone respect each other and take turns ( becaue there are plenty of waves and a lot fewer people than usual)
Just for that reason, I would love to get better and feel comfortable being out there so no one is going to give me stink eyes or see people yelling at each other.

This winter is the one to remember!