Mar 6, 2010

Honolua Bay

As I woke up and cheked my e-mails, I found an e- mail from my friend who is in Northshore Oahu for the whole season shootong watershots. it said that he was coming to Maui to catch some shots in Honolua with couple japanese pro surfers.
I called his number and they were already at Honolua at 7 am. They decided to come last night and rallied around 2 am to get to airport and then took first flight and got rental car. and here they are dawn patroling Honolua! That is pretty good!It was too onshore to kite on the northside so I was thinking about going to west side in the first place, I drove all the way to Honolua to see them.They were already in the water. waves were going off. I watched them for hours . I know when it is good here, it is hard to catch good set waves because all the locals will catch it and there are not much left . and by the time next sets come, those locals who cought the last one will be back in a lineup.
But they managed to snagg some good ones .There were also other really good surfers and bodyboarders, later on I found out they were Jamie O'brien and Liam Mcmanara, some local ripper I cannot remember the name , and world body board champ Jeff HUbbard etc.(this is Jamie after hours of surfing , locals didn't show too much welcome, he was getting dropped in on left and right, poor thing, that wasn't cool but he was ripping)

Surf art legend John Severson once told me
# Honolua is like Yankee stadium of surfing. any kid can play baseball at yankee stadium technichally but they don't and they shouldn't. Honolua should be that way , too"
I kinda got what he meant. I understand you earn your way up by dealing with junk waves or wait in line for the long time but if you do that and put effort long enough , you will be the one who gets the waves you want. it is total pecking order but I think it is Ok.

Anyways, what a great waves and it wasn't even that windy, everywhere else on the island was gale force! Special place indeed!

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