Sep 2, 2009

North Swell in August!?

Northeast swell came up in the afternoon of Friday and Even Honolua Bay was breaking a little on Saturday. it came down a bit the next day but on Monday bigger size Swell hit the Northshore and we all had a great time.

Usually First winter swell comes around the end of sep or early Oct, Aug is unheard of ( I am not even sure if this can be the first swell, it may not be as big enough, but definately powerful enough to call it a swell)
It was a great surprise swell in Aug and great reminder that winter is right around the corner. in fast the air feels a bit cooler last couple days.
I was still under the weather but when I looked at the webcam, it showed the definate swell lines and it instantly injected some adrenalin into my system.I went down to Lanes early so I can get out right at eleven ( we have the rule on Maui that kiters and windsurfers are not supposed to go out till 11 am) It was already windy and waves were up, maybe about 4-5ft, way better than anything we had seen for 3-4 month.
We did have crazy North swell in May this year, which is unusually late, I hope this is the sign of good winter with lots of big swells.

Anyways, the guys on the beach sounded like they were pumping their smallest kites so I decided to go with my 4m , too. I don't like using it in Lanes, especially when it is gusty but sometimes I have no choice.
when I first went out, I was a bit underpowered but I was ok. first hour or so was just 3 of us and it was great. Waves weren't the cleanest but afterdealing with months of flat summer , we were so stoked to see anything !
it was nice to see all the familiar faces who come to Lanes in the winter , too.

Yasushi went out as well , he was doing great , it was probably the biggest waves he had dealt with and I saw him crashing his kite 3 times or so, some of the crash was pretty hard that his kite was totally inverted and folded in the waves, his board floating and drifting.
But luckily he managed to get his kite up every time. When he came back to the beach, he said he was scared but he had this glow in his face like he stepped up a notch. it was nice to be out there with him today.
Andrew went down to kite beach, even there had plenty of waves, he came back super stoked , telling me he had a break through!
This is Hookipa side, windsurfers were stoked as well.
When waves are on the island, everyone is stoked and the whole atomosphere on the beach changes. people move faster , more focused and happier.
Amazing what waves do to us , maybe what we need for the world peace is more waves?

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