Nov 26, 2009

Huge swell but ruined by onshore wind

Today is the biggest day of the season but it is only Nov. who knows how many and how big we are going to get this winter, I have a very good feeling about this winter! we already have more swells than we had all last winter !
Anyways, Hookipa was totally closing out. no surfers were out . it was very west and channel was totally closing out but west swell has big lulls and I can see there are some opening t get out . This is about the biggest size I would consider going out ( on a good wind day)
If the wind was good and strong, I would have gone straight to kite beach and tried to hit right at 11am to avoid the crowd but report says no wind down there.
It was a bit more onshore than yesterday at Lanes too , which means probably straight onshore down the coast and that is not good. So I decided to wait and see if the wind direction changes and get stronger.
Sometimes it is not good to come to the beach so early, you get so amped up that you convince yourself that it is ridable.
Deep inside, I knew it was too light and too big and too onshore, I felt like I had to go out and see how it is. First I tried with 7m but as soon as I launched my kite, I knew it was way too small so I pumped up 9m which I would never use in a big surf, but somehow I convinced myself that I used it enough times in Baja that I should be Ok.
As I went out with 9m huge sets totally closed out across the ocean and I was underpowered with even my 9m, I knew then that noone ( including me) was going to make it today. way too onshore and too light. Even if I somehow make it out, I would only ended up getting caught by whitewater behind and get totally munched and destroyed if not killed.
I went back and force for a while playing it safe inside and felt good about giving up.
Kitebeach was the same, it is usually more onshore and lighter when Lanes get like this.I still had too much adrenalin in me that I had to get rid of so I drove all the way to west side. When it is onshire on the northshore, sometimes west side gets windy. when I arrived S turn, I saw 2 windsurfers floating outside, waves looked pretty good like head high. at one point, it must have been windy but it started raining and wind was shut down.
I found Andrew and Sean at the park so we went out surfing there just to get wet. It was a bit too windy for my standup paddle but it was fun anyways.
I heard Honolua was all time, ( like this photo by Hiro) and Paige was ripping it up. She is the best local bigwave surfer for sure and I am so proud of her being such a solid surfer and young and super cool person! She sure deserves more publicity and sponsors.

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