Good Quote

As All I can do is laying down most of the day still, I have been reading quite a bit. I picked up new SURFER magazine which was special issue of "50 greatest surfers of all time "
I thought it was a very stupid theme , why do people have to label and rank everything especially Surfing, which is all about personal preference , it is such a broad subject and how could someone can put Kelly, Duke Kahanamoku and Tom Curren together and put ranking as 1,2,3? how can you say " Oh Gerry you are #4, you are not as great as Tom Curren or Kelly"
Wow.
Of course I have my own personal list of greatest surfers of all time according to MY OWN standard and quality I look up to, but that is personal.There is no way I can rank them as 1st and second, they all have different qualities that teach you something real special.
You just cannot rank all the surfers of different era, that is for sure, maybe it is something to do with contest oriented scene and it is always easy to categorize and put numbers.

Anyways, contrary to the stupid concept, there were some good readings in it.
magazine editors found right person to write something interesting about each of the greatest surfers.
My favorite was Rob Machado on Gerry Lopez, ( he told me the exact stor almost exact words when I interviewed him in Jan for japanese magazine and I was very moved by his story) , Jeannie Chesser on Rell Sunn, Rory Russel on Jock Sutherland( and a bit about Gerry ).
in their word, their own personality comes up vivid ly as well as their love and respect for the person, it makes you feel warm inside and feel shared the aloha they have.
I do have so many mentors in and out of water and this inspired me to put those respect and feeling into words before it gets too old.

Rob said something interesting that I couldn't put it into right words about Gerry,
"He( Gerry) is inspirational, not just in the way he makes difficult situation look easy, but in his whole act from head to toe, from sunrise to sunset. There is a realtionship he has with riding waves and with being in the ocean, there is that synergy between the two, and you can just see it."

Amen!